When it comes to full pelt fur coat stitching techniques , the two most common ones are the "skin to skin" and the "let out' technique.
Skin to skin is pretty self explanatory and it is the technique where the fur pelts are stitched side by side in a horizontal , vertical or diagonal manner . This technique has been widely adopted by fashion designers due to its modern and sleek look and furthermore due to to its lower manufacturing costs . The pelts can be either stitched directly or with the interference of leather stripes depending on the look the fur maker is willing to achieve, Note that in a full skin fur coat the dorsal area of the pelt is used only since it holds the thicker and most luscious hair. An exception to this rule is mink where the flank area is also used in the making of the final product.
The fully let out technique requires that the pelt is cut into thin 0.5-1.0 cm wide stripes(just like a paper shredder) which are then stitched together , either directly or with the interference of thin leather stripes. This is a process of achieving an even hair density and look throughout the coat's surface. Remember that fur skins are natural products and each one is unique when it comes to density and hair length. Even though skins are sorted in lots that share the same traits the still have small differences . Furriers in their strive for perfection use this technique to eliminate these differences.
In addition each seam between the thin stripes works as small 'joint' or "hinge" if you prefer. This provides better draping and flexibility to the coat as well as a flattering and wavy motion when walking in such a coat , similar to the catwalk effect .
Another application of the let out technique is volume reduction , especially in more bulky fur coats like the ones made of fox and raccoon . This is done with the insertion of leather stripes between the fur stripes.The coat will still retain its warmth since leather is an excellent insulator .
Fully let out coats require several hours of skilled craftmanship and thus cost more . One should expect a bit of shedding for the first two months , which comes from the excess of fur from cutting and stitching.
fully let out fox fur coat skin to skin mink fur coat
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